Just got back from Kwaj. It was my first trip. Kwajalein Atoll is in the Republic of the Marshall Islands and is only about 9 degrees north of the equator. Kwajalein Island is the largest island of the atoll. There are only a few cars/trucks; since it’s only six miles around the perimeter and there are only 1400 people on the island, most of them get around on bikes.
Generally, the bikes are single-speed conveyances with coaster brakes – very similar to the first bike you rode. What sets them apart from the rest of the world is the handlebars. No one know how it evolved, but bizarrely tall handlebars are a bit of a status symbol. Here are a few examples.
The island is narrow enough that you can watch the sun rise and set over the Pacific Ocean from the same spot – yes, you must face different directions.
I had time for some snorkeling. It was the first time I’ve ever snorkeled to a wrecked ship – I don’t know the full story, but it was a cargo vessel – maybe 70 feet long – and it went down in shallow water. The top of the mast sticks out 5 feet above high tide and has been marked by a soccer ball.
The mess hall is named after Louis Zamperini. Kwaj was the first place he was held after being captured by the Japanese.
Kwaj is at the far end of any supply line. There is a Burger King on the island; the grill is inop so they can only serve fried foods. Similarly, there is a Subway with a defunct oven; they can’t bake bread but can make everything a wrap. Both locations had been inop for 2-3 weeks and promise eventual repairs but make no commitment as to when. Meanwhile, pedal around a bit.
